Finding Family in Gebesee and a Squash Soup to Remember
On foot in Gebesee
This September, my sister Kirsten and I embarked on a memorable journey to Gebesee, a quaint and charming small town nestled in the heart of Germany, where our grandfather Paul Düsterdick grew up. The trip meant even more because I had never had the opportunity to meet my German cousins in person before. But as the days unfolded, I discovered a deep connection that made it feel as though I had known them my entire life.
We explored Gebesee on foot, which let me fully experience the village's atmosphere and charm. My cousin Nicola and her husband Martin joined us for the adventure, traveling an impressive five hours by train to be with us.
My cousin Albrecht, a gracious and welcoming host, led us through the picturesque streets, sharing stories and historical insights about the area. One of the highlights of the tour was discovering the home where my 5th great-grandparents lived around 1795. It is still owned by a distant cousin, and he invited us inside!
5th great-grandparents' home Our cousins in Gebesee
Albrecht also arranged a reception with the local heritage association at the former Ratskeller, which my great-grandfather once operated and which is now the town hall. It was a wonderful opportunity to meet the people of Gebesee. They served coffee and cake, following the German afternoon tradition of Kaffee und Kuchen. We shared pictures, and the mayor greeted us. It was a profound experience to stand in places that held such significance for my family's heritage, and it connected me to my roots in a tangible way.
Gretchen and Kirsten standing outside of our great grandfather's Ratskeller The mayor of Gebesee with Kirsten and Nicola post card with our great-grandfather's Ratskeller
Albrecht and his partner Helga kindly hosted us for a cookout in their lovely garden. The grill was loaded with bratwurst and steak, served with homemade potato salad (which Kirsten is trying to recreate) and plenty of cold German beer. We started with a toast of bubbly to family found again. We talked for hours, swapping family stories and comparing notes on our family trees, and laughing as we stumbled between German and English. Sitting there with cousins we had only just met, it felt like we had known each other for years.
The next day, we ventured out to Erfurt, the capital of Thuringia, where we spent hours wandering the enchanting old town. Erfurt is known as the City of Flowers because of its long history of horticulture and seed growing. The streets twisted and turned in a way that made navigation feel like an adventure rather than a chore.
Walking through Erfurt was truly the best way to experience its charm. I took time to notice the vibrant gardens bursting with color, the window boxes adorning the facades of historic buildings, and the lively market stalls brimming with fresh produce and handmade goods. At one of those stalls, I came across an especially impressive display of squash. My cousin Nicola mentioned a delicious pumpkin soup she makes with Hokkaido squash. I was intrigued, because I wasn't familiar with this kind of squash.
Meet the Hokkaido squash
In Germany in September, bright orange squash seems to be everywhere. Germans call it Hokkaido Kürbis. Here in the States it usually goes by red kuri squash. It is small, round and deep orange-red, about the size of a cantaloupe, with a little point at the stem end. The flesh is dense and sweet, with a nutty, almost chestnut flavor. Kuri actually means chestnut in Japanese.
The best part: you do not have to peel it. The skin softens completely when cooked and blends right into a soup. If you have ever fought with a butternut squash and a vegetable peeler, you will understand why we fell for this one.
A recipe from Nicola
Once we returned home, Nicola shared her pumpkin soup recipe with me. This is a recipe that frequently appears in German kitchens each autumn—it's straightforward and comforting, and it brings back memories of our trip.
I wasn't certain I would be able to find the squash here. But then, at my local farmers market, I discovered an entire bin of red kuri squash. I ended up buying more than I needed.
This soup is velvety and golden, with a delicate flavor. Serve it with crusty bread, perhaps a warm baguette or grilled cheese, and you have a complete dinner that is both comforting and fulfilling, perfect for chilly evenings or gatherings with loved ones.
Guten Appetit, and thank you, Nicola.
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